Friday, November 16, 2012

To create a thing of beauty and curiosity for the wearer.

Delicate, strong and a little raw was my first impression of Noemi Klein's latest jewellery collection, Epoch 4, and it's one that has lingered, evoked by the sinuous and sharp lines of this lovely range. According to the press release,

 (this collection) is centered around Noemi’s fascination with the sea and in particular, crustaceans. The act of ‘moulting’ – when a crab sheds its old hard shell, growing a softer more delicate shell- is the main reference. Each piece has been cast using the exoskeleton or ‘shell’ of lobsters, crabs, crayfish and langoustines found in Billingsgate market.

And can't you just see it in the swift little sharps of these earrings and the neat, dense curves of the crab legs on the right, still suggestive of scuttling life?

Noemi Klein is originally from the West German countryside and is now based in East London, and she got into making jewellery with metal when her dentist father gave her a piece of cast-off machinery. This history of precision and attention to detail coupled with the intersection of liquid metal with the organic forms and materials found in nature echoes through this range and Noemi's prior ones. It's summarised by her design perspective,
to create a thing of beauty and curiosity for the wearer, to forge something out of nothing; articulating the violent necessity of nature, the force by which we live.

What's remarkable to me about this collection is that even though each piece stands on its own, when layered together it both forms a cohesive look and remains distinctive. My eyes flicker from the sculptural rings to the layered necklaces to that wonderful earring diving around this model's ear but yet notice each individually- this is not jewellery that would merge and disappear with whatever else you were wearing.

While I can easily imagine living in these pieces– and don't they seem the kind that make you feel bare when you forget to slip them on of a morning?- they would never blend into the background, but remain unusual, sculptural and lovely. Which is basically my way of saying that I want it. All of it!

Fellow Australian lovers can haunt Violent Green in Brisbane or you can find a full list of stockists here.

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