Wednesday, September 21, 2011

NYFW: Marc Jacobs

The caravan has already sprouted sails and sallied across the Atlantic but it is worth taking a moment to savour some of Marc Jacobs' more toothsome confections shown last week in New York.
What struck me most about this collection was not the Twenties vibe- of which much has been made, probably because of the early buzz surrounding Baz Luhrmann's upcoming Gatsby (which is currently shooting in Sydney, fyi. If I come across another report on how 'Leo' is 'dodging local paps' and talking to the prettier B-grade celebrities at various whatevers I'm going to batter myself senseless with a cloche)- but the edgy un-sexy/sexy parallel working down the runway.
He played with transparent- but instead of soft sheer, the likes of which have been everywhere from Chloe to he gave us what looked like skirts made of clingwrap, and bounced off the Mod lines and surprising versatility of transparent plastic shown at Celine and accessorised by Camilla and Marc and Jil Sander, amongst others, into something softer, grittier.
The collection, though executed with finesse, seemed to pulse with a 'can't-be-arsed' vibe, the asymmetrical hems and off-centre gathering smacking of dishevellement, which made a refreshing visual counterpoint to the polished West Egg dames sashaying down at Ralph Lauren.

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