Wednesday, September 21, 2011

LFW: Mary Katrantzou

I don't know quite what it is about Mary Katrantzou's latest collection that's kept me fascinated for the past fifteen minutes. It's not just the incredible colours and prints... maybe it's they rewrite the linearity of a woman's shape, writing new lines of form through the way the garments direct the eye. Designers messed with the perception of womens' bodies for years, of course; whether they're reworking what it is to present an identifiable self to the world (Gareth Pugh's effacing latex, anyone?) or playing with shape to draw attention to whatever body part is currently fascinating: the ankle, the shin, the small of the back. 

But here we have pattern and print coursing over and drawing the eye horizontally across a model's body with no distinction made between torso and arms; we see legs striding forward out of almost plumage, with a fan of fabric flowing behind like the tail of a bird of paradise. Unusual cuts draw attention to the decollete, to the thighs, and the prints themselves-! So luscious they're like summer fruits, making the tastebuds ache just to look at them. 
For me, this collection isn't as riveting as her interior collection shown last season but it's still well cool. And maybe more "wearable", if that matters to you.


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