Friday, March 11, 2011

But Givenchy!

Those of you who care will already know that Riccardo Tisci is to step into the space recently vacated by Galliano at Dior. Now I'm not going to pretend that this is an industry blog and launch into a nitty bio about Tisci's aesthetic, his Catholicism-influenced designs (created to the tunes of Iron Maiden, 'pparently) nor will I speculate on the direction in which he might lead the 64 year old house... intriguing though that prospect is, I have a more pressing reaction to share. Namely, my reaction when I read the news (what would we do without Derek Blasberg, I ask you)- NOOOOOOOOOO!

I wailed because of the gaping, genius-shaped hole he will be leaving at Givenchy. I'm sure that with the equal if not greater (probably greater in a contemporarily commercial sense) resources and prestige at Dior he will stretch and grow even more as a designer, but it won't be a continuation of the Givenchy story he was building Couture collection to Couture collection, the darkly, corporeally, ethereally, visually arresting creations he wrought into being that reframed the alignment of body within its clothes. That challenged the play of religion, faith and tradition within and without the worn body. That mused on the intersection of the natural world and the robotic world, the weight of skeletons versus the flights of cartoon-coloured fancy. My understanding is that at a new house he will need to work into a new vision so that the branded identities of Dior and Givenchy remain distinct in the mind of the consumer so although I hotly anticipate what is next, as I always do when Tisci shows a collection, I lament the end of what was a magnificent run at Givenchy. 
So, in the spirit of Kanye West, here's a toast to the dropcrotch. And a toast for the (toast-for-the) feather-skin-bone dresses. Here's a toast for the facial jewellery. And a toast for the gender-blending beauty of black leather, body-framing lace, and the fancy of intrinsically wrought fabric mimicking the wind, sails, puffballs and daggers.
Vale Tisci for Givenchy

image of Tisci
images of collections from here, here, here and here


  1. INCREDIBLE POST! You literally took the words right out of my mouth. As much as I know that Tisci is making a smart career move by becoming the creative designer at Dior, it's just depressing to see him leave Givenchy. Hands down, Givenchy is my favorite designer because of the couture collections that Tisci created. Anyway, I'm just repeating everything you said haha.


  2. It's good to know I'm not alone on this! I felt a bit Grinchy because it's great for him but... but...
    ps. great blog x