It might come as no surprise to you that Industrie won. And if you have the means and can find it near you, go and buy it just for the interview with Miguel Adrover. A forgotten 'fashion favourite' who was feted in the late Nineties/early '00s (no, I won't call them the 'Noughties.' Ugh) and who now lives off the land and designs for a German eco mail-order label. The interviewer likens him in looks to an Old Testament prophet and like a prophet he speaks out against the prevailing order of the day- in this case, against the state of the fashion industry. He calls out the artifice of the industry and laments the way that young design talent is usurped into old, established houses which 'today...have nothing to say.' He's making bold statements which will probably only serve to isolate him even more from the industry and yet there is something so refreshing in hearing a discordant voice, whether you agree with him or not.
On Nicholas Ghesquiere, whose collections for Balenciaga are elsewhere described in Industrie as 'among the most creative and surprising of any Paris house', Adrover says,' why isn't he doing his own label? Because that don't look like Balenciaga fcking at all! It's ridiculous that he can't make his own label... it's so sad.' And reading those words and remembering Cristobal Balenciaga's aesthetic- exquisitely crafted ballgowns and sharp tailoring for a postwar world looking for tasteful elegance- Adrover is right. Ghesquiere is incredibly gifted- his designs are visionary and utterly unique each season- so why doesn't he have his own label? Why does he need the prestige of the established house? Because, as Adrover says, he would never get the funding to start up on his own from them. (He probably would from a conglomerate from LVMH but I guess that would be dependent on whether or not his designs fit with their own brand and vision.)
What else is interesting about this article? Adrover talks about his design philosophy (whilst never using such a pretentious term) which melds politics, philosophy and sociology into a comment on society. He believes that fashion should reflect modern times, the movements within society and the world. He champions upturning concepts of 'high' and 'low' and the breaking down of hierarchies. His philosophy of fashion is so revolutionary that it is tantamount to anarchical.I haven't even got further into the magazine yet, I wanted to quickly blog to share my eagerness. I feel disillusioned by a lot of fashion magazines these days but there are a handful that I would recommend*, and Industrie is one of them. They are rare as in Australia though, so you'd better get searchin'.
*The others? Lula, L'Officiel Hommes, Vogue Paris (sometimes. At least their perspective is bold. I feel like sometimes they try to shock for shocking's sake though which is just pretension in my book. But most of the time they are so spot on, achingly cool.)
*ps. sorry for the crappy photo quality. Back to the BlackBerry today because I am in the library and thus without my camera and USB cord thing.